How to Cut Down a Small Tree Safely — Step-by-Step

Step 1 — Site Assessment (Never Skip This)

Before touching any equipment, walk the site and answer these questions:

Identify the Fall Zone

Mark an area equal to 1.5× the tree's height in the intended fall direction, plus a 90-degree arc to each side. Every person, vehicle, structure, and pet must be out of this zone before any cut begins. In Huntsville's older neighborhoods, residential lots often can't provide an adequate fall zone — that's when you hire a professional who uses sectional dismantling instead of a straight fell.

Determine Natural Lean

Look at the tree from four sides. Hang a plumb bob (string + weight) from a branch at mid-crown height and observe which direction the string deviates from the trunk's centerline at the ground. This is your lean direction — the direction the tree most wants to fall regardless of where you're pointing it. Cutting into the notch without understanding lean produces surprises. In North Alabama's clay soil, root plate asymmetry often creates lean that's not visible from the trunk shape alone.

Check for Utilities

Look up. Any overhead line within the potential fall arc means: stop and call a professional. In Huntsville, call 811 (Alabama 811 / APOGEE) at least three business days before digging near the root zone as well — underground utilities exist in unexpected locations throughout Madison County neighborhoods.

Establish Two Escape Routes

Before cutting, identify two escape routes: 45-degree angles to the rear of the intended fall direction (not directly behind the tree). Clear brush and debris from these paths so you can move without tripping. When the tree begins to fall, your job is to move along one of these routes and not stop until you're at least 20 feet from the stump. Do not watch the tree fall — move.

Step 2 — Personal Protective Equipment

No exceptions for PPE on chainsaw work. Minimum required:

• Chainsaw chaps or chainsaw pants: Cut-resistant Kevlar material that jams a chainsaw chain instantly on contact. $60–$150. This is the single most important safety item for chainsaw work.
• Helmet with face shield and hearing protection: Falling debris and chips come from unexpected angles. Combined helmet/shield/ear protection units are available for $40–$80.
• Cut-resistant gloves: Keep the chainsaw under control; provide some cut protection. Standard leather work gloves are not adequate for chainsaw work — use gloves specifically rated for chainsaw use.
• Steel-toed boots: A fallen tree butt can roll or jump. Steel toes prevent crush injuries.
• High-visibility vest: If there's any vehicle traffic near the work area.

For hand saw work on very small trees (under 3 inches diameter), PPE requirements are simpler: safety glasses, gloves, and closed-toe shoes. But once you're running a chainsaw, full PPE is mandatory.

Step 3 — The Notch Cut (Face Cut)

The notch cut is made on the side of the tree facing the intended fall direction. It guides the fall and prevents the tree from splitting up the trunk when it comes down. Two techniques:

Open-Faced Notch (Recommended for DIY)

Make two cuts to form a 70-degree opening (wider than the traditional 45-degree notch):

1. Top cut: Angle downward at 70 degrees into the trunk. Cut to 1/4 to 1/3 of the trunk diameter. Do not cut past the center.
2. Bottom cut: Cut horizontally inward from below until it meets the top cut. The notch chunk should fall out cleanly.

The open-faced notch gives you more fall angle control and reduces kickback risk compared to the traditional Humboldt notch. The notch must be cut cleanly — if the two cuts don't meet precisely, the hinge won't form correctly.

What Is the Hinge?

The hinge is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. This is the critical structural element that controls the fall direction. The hinge must be: (1) uniform thickness across the full width of the tree, and (2) approximately 10% of the trunk diameter in thickness (for a 6-inch trunk, the hinge is about 0.6 inches thick). A hinge that breaks unevenly causes the tree to spin or fall sideways. Never cut through the hinge.

Step 4 — The Back Cut

The back cut is made from the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the bottom of the notch. This cut releases the hinge and initiates the fall.

1. Position yourself to the side — not directly behind the tree. You need a clear path along your escape route from this position.
2. Begin the back cut 1 inch above the bottom of the notch, cutting horizontally toward the notch from the opposite side.
3. Stop cutting when you have approximately 10% of the tree's diameter remaining as the hinge. Do not cut all the way through — ever.
4. If the tree begins to move, release the saw, disengage the chain brake, and move along your escape route immediately.
5. If the tree is not moving and you've left adequate hinge: insert a felling wedge (plastic or aluminum, not wood) behind the saw to prevent the tree from sitting back on the bar. This is critical for larger trees.

Step 5 — When the Tree Falls and After

The instant the tree begins moving: chainsaw off (or thumb the chain brake), move along your escape route, keep moving until you're 20 feet clear. Look up — secondary debris (branches, widow makers dislodged by the fall) can come from any direction in the seconds after the tree hits.

After the tree is down:

• Wait 30 seconds before approaching. Trees can shift or roll after impact.
• Look for any lodged debris in adjacent trees that may have been disturbed by the fall.
• Limb the fallen trunk (remove side branches) before bucking (cutting into lengths). Limbing cuts should always be made from the side opposite your standing position — never between the trunk and a limb under tension.
• Watch for bound limbs under compression — when you cut them, they spring free with significant force.

Step 6 — Stump Management

The stump remaining after felling can be handled several ways:

Stop — Call a Professional Instead When:

• The tree is over 20 feet tall or over 6 inches DBH
• The natural lean is toward a structure, fence, utility, or vehicle
• The fall zone cannot be cleared completely
• The tree has any visible decay, fungi, hollowness, or unusual lean
• There is any overhead utility within the fall arc
• You've never operated a chainsaw before
• The tree is dead (dead wood is unpredictable under cut forces)
• It's an oak and it's between March 1 and June 15 (oak wilt window — delay if possible)

Frequently Asked Questions

Related Articles